The Strength of Character of Tea: Bitterness and Hui Gan
The strength of character of tea is the balance between its bitterness and astringency on one side and its aroma and sweetness on the other. Beginners often brew only for sweetness and fragrance, but a tea’s true nature includes some bitterness. In a good tea, that bitterness turns into a sweet aftertaste, which Chinese tea drinkers call huí gān (回甘).
What is the strength of character of tea?
When people start learning to brew tea, they usually try to make the tea mainly sweet and fragrant. I often describe their tea as lacking strength of character. The character of tea is its essence, and the original taste of tea is bitter and astringent.
Why should you accept bitterness in tea?
To drink tea well, we must dare to accept its bitterness, and dare to brew its bitterness and astringency too. Of course, in a good tea, bitterness must turn into sweetness, and astringency must give way to a fresh, mouth-watering feeling. Aroma and sweetness are the flesh and blood of tea. Bitterness and astringency are its nature and spirit. The balance between bitterness and astringency, and aroma and sweetness, builds the strength of character of a tea.
How is life like tea?
Isn’t life like this? No one’s life is always sweet. Like tea, life’s original taste is a little bitter and astringent. And just as a good tea leaves a sweet aftertaste, in a good life all hardships bring their reward. Read the three lives of tea and tea and personality.
How can you brew tea with more character?
- Use enough leaf; too little makes thin, characterless tea.
- Don’t be afraid of a little bitterness, but avoid oversteeping.
- Choose teas known for huí gān, like raw pu-erh and Wuyi rock oolongs.
- Taste slowly and wait for the aftertaste. See the three dimensions of tasting tea.
FAQ
What does hui gan mean?
Huí gān (回甘) is the sweet aftertaste that follows bitterness in a good tea.
Is bitter tea bad tea?
Not necessarily. Good tea can be a little bitter, as long as the bitterness turns sweet.
Which teas have strong character?
Raw pu-erh and Wuyi rock oolongs are famous for it.